Naturally, we had to kick things off with the jacket that started it all. Errolson Hugh’s notorious label is not only the central pillar of the techwear world, but is widely regarded as the future of the entire sector. More than an industry leader, Acronym —despite a premium price-point and little in the way of marketing—manages to consistently sell out, often demanding a heavy premium on the aftermarket, setting a precedent for many labels hoping to follow suit. By slowly developing a signature aesthetic, building up a core audience and keeping a close control on supply, Acronym has cleverly toed the line between hype and cult.
One of Acronym’s signature qualities is how little the label has changed since its inception . Despite a handful of collaborations and special projects over the years, each seasonal collection is by and large the same. Always assigned programmatic SKUs, a few pairs of pants (P), some shirts (S) and, of course, jackets (J) compose the lineup, many of which (apart from a number of updates) are exactly the same as the season prior. Hugh prides himself on consistency and—more often than not—rather than introduce a new silhouette, he updates pre-existing pieces, hoping to make them increasingly functional rather than starting from scratch. The J1A-GT is one such example.
Initially released in 2002 in a 120 piece run as part of the first ever Acronym collection, the jacket is the quintessential Acronym piece. Featuring a never-ending array of pocket and zips, the now iconic jacket introduced numerous Acronym classics over the years, including the sling strap, removable and packable hood, gravity phone pocket, magnetized collar, multiple zip exit and entry and countless others. Featuring a boxy, somewhat cropped fit that perfectly pairs with both wide and tapered trousers—a techwear must—over numerous renditions (currently on 2.2 as of 2019) the J1A-GT defined the entire genre. Of course, it comes loaded with the latest Gore-Tex waterproofing and tear-resistant technology, and is naturally fitted to interface with the various other Acronym attachments and accessories. For those planning on getting fully kitted, this is the ideal place to start. If you’re going to purchase a techwear jacket and willing to spend the cash, there is little argument, this is the one to buy.
Although not “techwear” per se, Arc’teryx ’s main line is so technologically advanced and multi-dimensional, you would be hard pressed to not include it in any respectable list. Canada ’s answer to The North Face , Arc’teryx is recognized the world over for outfitting everyone from mountaineers to the country’s military and police force. Well regarded for its tear-resistant, functional fabrics, Arc’teryx is beloved by skiers, hikers, city dwellers and the techwear community for its commitment to cutting edge fabric and always bold color palette.
It’s trademark design, the Alpha SV, is by far the most popular jacket in the brand’s arsenal. Although marketed for climbing and alpine conditions, the hardshell jacket is just as suitable for frigid New York winters. Given the techwear's proliferation and a recent embrace of color throughout menswear, the Alpha SV is suddenly trending harder than ever; the jacket is a fashion week street style regular and even appeared on the Off-White Fall/Winter 2020 runway.
Made from Gore-Tex Pro fabric , the exceptionally waterproof jacket is lightweight, abrasion resistant and boasts next level features including pit zips, taped seams and the patented StormHood system to survive even the toughest conditions. With an articulated construction, the jacket fits straight across the shoulders and lands roughly at the waist for a modern, functional look.
At an entirely palatable price point—especially on Grailed—the Alpha SV is ideal for those looking for a tech-savvy jacket not only has all the bells and whistles, but comes in more than you standard black, gray or navy. If you’re searching for loud colors, Arc’teryx can’t be beat.
Formed nearly a century ago, Japanese climbing and ski brand Descente isn’t nearly as widely recognized as other more prominent techwear labels. Despite primarily catering to the mountain crowd, the label’s Allterrain leisure line is just as advanced as any competitor.
Designed for life beyond the slopes, Allterrain was initially a concept for Japanese athletes to wear outside of events during the 2010 Olympic Games in Vancouver. Following the line’s incredibly warm reception, designer Misturu Yamada was tasked with reconfiguring the clothes into a ready-to-wear sportswear line and, in 2012, Allterrain was born. Centered around the Mizusawa down jacket—a central brand garment athletes wore throughout the games—the designs are simple, sleek and predominantly minimal. This function-first methodology, where aesthetic is a mere afterthought, in turn creates long-lasting, highly wearable technical jackets with a distinct Japanese twist.
Of the numerous designs, the Sun Shield Hardshell is by far our favorite. Featuring an asymmetrical zip and bungee cord pull-string at the hood and hem, the waterproof, windproof jacket transforms from a casual zip-up into mountain ready hood and hem through pure function. Made from a proprietary nylon-blend poplin, the Sun Shield features multi-directional stretch to increase durability, while taped seams and UV protection (hence the name) protect you from the elements. Available in both white and black, the little known jacket—which features an interior vest layer allowing for additional styling—punches well above its weight class.
Yes, another Acronym piece. Given that this is a techwear jacket list, including the definitive brand twice could hardly be avoided. But, if we had to include another Acronym piece apart from the J1A-GT, it would naturally by the J27-GT.
The brand’s take on a field jacket (as opposed to the more aggressive J1A-GT with offset front patch pocket and multi-zip entry) the J27-GT is decidedly more minimal, a sleek alternative boasting nearly identical tech to its predecessor. Like other Acronym garments, the J27-GT is a longtime brand staple, available in numerous renditions over the years. Ongoing updates—Hugh's aforementioned focus on consistency doesn't mean he doesn't know how to tinker—mean each edition is slightly different, and, in order to know which one you’re looking for, extensive research is required. However, updates aside, if you are searching for Acronym-level tech in a less overwhelming form, the J27-GT is our recommendation.
Of course, technically speaking, Acronym jackets remain undefeated. The most recent J27-GT, for instance, helped introduce 2L Gore-Tex SHAKEDRY, an even lighter water-resistant material that quite literally repels water to the point where you can—you guessed it—shake the garment dry. Featuring bomber-like styling and a 3D ridge collar that allows the wearer to seamlessly alter the hood and collar configuration whilst wearing the jacket, the J27-GT might just be our personal favorite. The J1A-GT is a classic, of course, but unless you’re looking for the full tech ninja get-up, it can be a bit much. As far as we see it, the J27-GT is the one, and there really is no other option.
Given its tangential connections to the techwear space and overlapping audience, it made total sense when Arc’teryx launched its minimal, fashion-focused Veilance line in 2009.
Originally Arc’teryx Veilance (which has subsequently rebranded to simply "Veilance" following its 10-year anniversary in 2019) the Veilance line strips Arc’teryx of its primary color palette and fossil logo in favor of muted hues, streamlined designs and a wardrobe better suited from downtown creative offices than the Alps. With a range including everything from raincoats to blazers and suit trousers, Veilance presents clothes that while—ostensibly simple—are technically nuanced. Suits are machine washable and packable while jackets boast extensive warranties and are highly versatile. The resulting collection is one of the most revered lines in techwear.
Of Veilance’s many jackets, the Partition LT is easily the most popular. A three-quarter length Gore-Tex raincoat with removable hood, the lightweight jacket more closely resembles a modern trench than the sort rubberized rain gear most brands produce. Easily worn alongside a blazer or hoodie, the highly versatile jacket is chock full of the sort of functions you would expect from any Arc’teryx garment, including taped seams, wind guard and an attached zippered stuff sack, which you can stuff the entire jacket into for easy transportation. Though they are by no means cheap, this is the sort of raincoat that lasts a lifetime.
First things first, Junya Wantanabe is not a techwear label. That said, the namesake designer’s obsession with all things workwear has led to some extraordinary collaborations with a plethora of brands that, to varying degrees, are techwear adjacent.
Working alongside brands ranging from [Porter]((https://www.grailed.com/designers/porter ) and [The North Face]((https://www.grailed.com/designers/the-north-face ) to [Canada Goose]((https://www.grailed.com/designers/canada-goose ), Junya Wantanabe regularly veers towards the technical side of menswear—the aforementioned solar-powered jacket included. Considering that techwear is largely rooted in functionality and uniforms are a central tenet of the aesthetic, the overlap was inevitable.
As of late, the most celebrated Junya Wantanabe jacket–at least, in techwear circles—is its collaboration with British camping outfitter Karrimor, the backpack jacket. Released as part of the Fall/Winter 2018 collection, the backpack jacket mimicked a previous design from the previous year, however, instead of working once again with The North Face, Watanabe chose Karrimor and deconstructed backpacks to create fully-functional reversible coats. While the “outside” is an ostensibly normal duck canvas parka with contrast shoulder pads, the interior features a patchwork of backpack straps, labels, clips and fully-functional outer compartment. A seasonal highlight, the jackets sold out almost instantly and today are highly sought-after. Though a number of colors were released, the blue/khaki reversible original is by far the favorite. More than a techwear grail, this is one of the best jackets Junya Wantanabe has ever released–and considering his staggering resume, that’s saying something.
When Errolson Hugh was appointed to overhaul Nike ACG from a '90s inflected action sports line to a cutting edge tech-focused label under the NikeLab umbrella, critical reception was mixed. Though techwear enthusiasts were thrilled—finally an opportunity to purchase Acronym gear at a Nike price point—die-hard fans felt the new direction was too far removed from the line’s initial purpose. Yet, the result was without a doubt a success for the four years it lasted, spanning a number of successful footwear releases and firmly putting the Swoosh on the techwear scene’s radar.
In the first season, Hugh introduced an entirely new design language, which focused on activewear designed for urban environments, most famous of which was the 3-in-1 System coat. As the title implies, the external shell’s 3-layer Gore-Tex offered wind and rain protection, while an interior detachable Primaloft bomber provided warmth. Of course, the outer layer could also be worn as the shell, so, in reality there are three distinct ways to wear the piece (hence the name). Featuring a removable sling and hood, the jacket boasted similar design specifications to its Acronym counterparts, for a fraction of the price.
Yet, for more than $700, it was a high price to pay, particularly for a Nike product, partially the reason the line failed to ever truly take off. While Nike and Errolson chose to part ways in 2018 following the final Holiday collection, rumor has it that a new Nike endeavor is on the horizon. Whatever it is, the 3-in-1 System coat is still a jacket worth investing in. Though the line is officially defunct, the piece regularly shows up on Grailed, but beware, many have been hacked for parts so be sure you are buying the coat in its entirety.
More than a decade before he founded Stone Island , Italian fashion designer and garment researcher Massimo Osti began C.P. Company . Initially a graphic designer, Osti began producing T-shirts through unique printing processes and shortly thereafter fell in love with dye techniques and fabric research. After experimenting with garment dyeing fabrics, Osti formed the Chester Perry label which, following a lawsuit was eventually renamed C.P. Company. Specializing in high quality sportswear, the brand quickly gained widespread recognition across Italy for both its innovative dye process and unorthodox fabric choices.
By 1988, the label and its sister brand Stone Island were world-renowned for their technical prowess. That year, Osti was invited to design a jacket for the Mille Miglia, the infamous open car endurance race across Europe . The result was a simple beige twill cloth jacket that featured a full zip and oversized hood with mesh eyehole cutouts, which when zipped all the way up allowed drivers to see while protecting their head from the wind. While originally named after the race itself, today the jacket goes by another name: the Goggle Jacket.
Although no longer novel and somewhat antiquated in comparison to Stone Island’s expansive fabric technology, the Goggle Jacket is one of the most famous technical jacket’s in menswear history, and to this day widely respected by both techwear and football hooligans alike. While modern editions are available in a range of fabrics from polyester shells to specially-dyed nylon, the lightweight nylon is our personal favorite, and in look and feel most closely resembles the original.
